2007-3-16 09:05 PM catcatcat
Burberry

產地: 英國

公元1856年,創辦人Thomas Burberry在英國Hampshire的Basingstoke開設了一間成衣店,以獨家布料、經典格子圖案及優雅剪裁,風靡到現代。Thomas Burberry曾在布店當學徒,21歲自立門戶於英國Hampshire開設服飾用品店。
1879年,他研發出一種組織結實、防水透氣的斜紋布料-Gabardine(軋別丁),因為Burberry發現家鄉的牧羊人及農夫,身上穿的麻質衫有冬暖夏涼的功能,經過研究他製成防水防縐、透氣耐穿的布料,此後Burberry便努力從事運動服裝設計。因耐用實穿的特性使然,很快就被英國機師及軍隊廣泛使用。

1901年,Burberry設計出第一款風衣,一次大戰爆發,Burberry風衣被指定為英國軍隊的高級軍服,而為配合軍事用途,在設計上也修改為雙排扣、肩蓋、背部有保暖的厚片,並在腰際附上D型金屬腰帶環,以便收放彈藥、軍刀等,這款實用功能至上的風衣,也就是目前家喻戶曉的「Trench Coat!」有50多萬英國官兵都穿過Burberry服裝。電影《北非諜影》中亨佛萊•保嘉穿的戰服、Audrey Hepburn在《Breakfast at Tiffany's》中穿的雨衣套裝、還有《華爾街》中的麥克•道格拉斯,都是Burberry的驕傲。第一位到達南極點的探險家Roald Amundsen、第一位橫越南極洲的Captain R.F. Scott及Sir Ernest Shackleton,都是穿Burberry完成冒險。
直到今日,翻開英國牛津辭典,如果想查「風衣」這個單字,你會發現「Burberry」已成為風衣的另一代名詞,具有非凡的意義!Burberry另一經典可說是以米色、紅色、黑色與白色等線條構成的格紋。原本用於風衣內裡的格紋,於1924年首度現身,優雅時髦的調性,直到今日,Burberry的服飾與配件系列可以說是與風衣並稱的兩大經典。

Burberry設計強調英國傳統高貴,1891年位於倫敦首間專門店迄今存在;1920年成為有限公司在倫敦上市、1924年將格子條紋註冊為專利圖案,並在1955年成為英國皇室正式御用品。

直到今天Burberry製作防水服裝的方法仍是秘密,由駝色、黑色、紅色、白色組成的經典格子圖案,成為其代名詞。另一方面收回日本Burberry產品生產,改以授權推出「Burberry Blue Label」,也就是台灣也迷戀的藍標系列,吸引年輕消費者。1998年成立Prosum Line,將產品線伸延到袋子、牛仔褲及泳裝等,不惜重金請名模Kate Moss和Stella Tenant宣傳,成功將顧客年齡年輕化。

除傳統服裝外,為因應多元時代的來臨,Burberry也將設計觸角延伸至其它領域,並將經典元素注入其中,推出相關商品,讓傳統英國的尊貴個性與生活品味繼續延伸其中,獲得嶄新的生命。

2001年開始生產香水系列,包括男士香水系列,副品牌ProrsumHorse專攻飾品及其它時尚精品。90年代末期,時尚界吹起品牌新生的大趨勢,Burberry也開始在大環境下尋求突破。現任品牌CEO的Rose Marie Bravo女士在1997年加入Burberry,並先後請來Roberto Menichetti與Christopher Bailey擔任設計總監,在擁抱前人哲學之餘,透過獨有的設計思考,重新演繹Burberry的新動力哲學;不僅如此,知名攝影師Mario Testino也為Burberry時尚廣告操刀,搭配超級名模Stella Tennant與Kate Moss,果然一舉獲得眾多好評,讓世人目光再度轉移至Burberry!

官方網站: [url]http://www.burberry.com/[/url]

2007-3-24 09:06 AM catcatcat
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